Arr…Alaa la………,the pain in my back do not seem to go away
and the arthritic knee had to be warmed and stretched slowly before I decide to
slip out of my bed. Embers from last night’s fire were still glowing red but it
had given me enough warmth for the night. It was the third call of the rooster
and time for me to begin my day even though the darkness still looms all over.
From the crack of the mud wall, I can see the sky in the eastern horizon turn
lighter than the rest, an ominous sign of the dawn.
My old body made up of the four elements may return back
to those elements soon and the nagging pains are the signs of all those
aggregates preparing to return back to Mother Nature. These elements together
is what made up a form called body which I am so possessive about and
protective even when it does not belong to me in true sense. This body did not
belong to me like any other wealth before I came, nor will it ever belong to me
after I am gone. This body was just a rented body for my soul to take shelter.
Today, I want to tell my life story in short. This is my
reality and the reality that all of us face. It is a cause of concern and worry
for the society that something of Tsunamic proportion is taking place in a slow
motion. I am worried not for me because I will be long gone when its impact is
felt, but for those generations that will follow me and of course yours too.
Half raised from the blanket and feeling little fuzzy, a
train of thoughts engulfed me. Today, I have a trip to make to the dzongkhag
headquarters. The distance is long. There is an old pickup truck in my village but,
the road that was built three years back was washed away. Sadly gewog has no
budget and whatever little dzongkhag had was already used. So we are going to
walk again including the vehicle owner.
Today, he will not be able to take away our hard earned
money and he will sweat profusely trying to keep pace with the rest of us. His
massive girth was an indication of where all our money had gone in him. Today,
we all walk equal like we always did some years back before the road came. The
road has made him richer, while the rest of us only became poorer. He runs the
only shop in our village and owns a pick-up truck too. So, all our money goes
to him.
When the road first came there was excitement. We all
sang songs and danced. The old and the aging and the rest walked the new road.
Few children, half naked ran, their unkempt hair flying in rhythm with their
gait. But, the initial excitement was short lived. It only drained whatever
little resource we had. In the past we had to walk for hours to the nearest
shop. We all did. Poor man like me and the rich man in the neighbourhood all
walked together. Today, he bought a taxi and we ride in it paying him all the
money we can muster. Most of us had gone poorer while the rich man is growing
fatter with our money.
Life has become difficult for me to be living in the
village at this age. Just yesterday, I went to work in a community forest to clear
unwanted bushes that are hampering the growth of good trees. This is the fifth
day in the last two months that we have been working. One member from every
household is required for the work, failing it will result in the payment of Nu
300 as penalty. You know the whole village now looks after a huge forest
converted as community forest. There aren’t many trees in that forest but, with
all villages having their own forest areas, we had to take even that or risk
not having any, the local leaders warned.
And when I say it is difficult. I mean it. More than half
of my time is spent fulfilling various obligations in the village; the lists
are endless for me to narrate. Then there are important meetings by dzongkhag
officials, followed by gewog and tshokpas which also take up substantial work
days.
Those of us left behind in the village have to attend to
all these things. We are getting old but there are not many young people in the
village. We have sent our children in school, hoping they will find a good
government job and help us. I am told there are not many jobs while there are
thousands looking for employment. But, they will not come back home. They are
educated.
Even those in the village are migrating to towns. They
say life is good there with tall buildings, shining cars and wide roads teeming
with cars and people. But, my heart will never find peace in an alien place. I
love my village but, my beautiful village is growing old and thin. When I say
old, my village is inhabited mostly by old people and in dwindling numbers. Some empty houses have become haunted place.
Just the other night, someone told of encountering a gigantic shadowy figure by
an empty house when the night fell.
Back in the villages, farms are shrinking including mine.
I cannot till all the land that belongs to me. I have been able to farm only
half of my land. Rests are covered in Artemisia plants along with those who
left never to return back. Another neighbour is planning to move out to where
his son lives.
Bushes in the neighbourhood are a hiding place for wild
boar during the day. And monkeys live on the fringes closely watching my maize
field grow. Looks like I am share cropping for them and others like deer and
even nocturnal porcupine take their share. The government is in a indefinite experimental
mode, so I better forget about any wishful thinking solutions.
Well, we have sent our representative to talk and correct
things in the society and find solutions to the problems facing the villages
like ours. They also promised so much in talks laced with honey when they came
campaigning. I am sad now; they saw our vote and mandate as an opportunity to
fatten their pocket. I feel like I will not vote from now onward but, if I
don’t vote, it is as good as my vote going to the undeserving person. If I
vote, and good candidate lose, my vote becomes futile. This is intriguing about
election to us. In between many things can also possibly happen I am told.
And now I pick up aging cane hat (call it zaapi or bello)
and head out fetch firewood. Even though, it is developing loose ends at the
fringes, it is much more useful than that politician who promised me a handsome
cowboy hat, stetson (Jazham) which he forgot after the election is over. The
loose strands on the edges are coming out but, it keeps my bald head dry in the
rain and also insulates it when it shines. Honestly, I fancied wearing a
handsome Jazham once but have made peace with my old bello hat, because this is
the reality.
Well, I told you my story but I did not tell you who I
am. I am the real face of Bhutan, the 70 percent of the population to be
precise. I am Sonam Zhingpa, a farmer who lives in a remote village where life
has hardly changed for better, a real farmer in fact. Are you listening???
Take care until we meet again.
Gyembo Namgyal
August 29, 2014